Editor’s Diary

Going Italian in San JuanBy Ronald C. Flores

Ask me the name of my favorite restaurant in San Juan and the answer is immediate: Tuscany at the San Juan Marriott. Tuscany is a hotel restaurant, not a concession, which—for me—makes the consistently high quality of its food and service especially remarkable.

The cost of a fine dinner at Tuscany could always be considered reasonable, but currently it is participating in the Puerto Rico Hotel &Tourism Association’s Puerto Rico Zest program, which makes it especially affordable. If you pay with a MasterCard, a three-course dinner is $25 per person (not including tax, tip, and beverages.)

Remember, this is a first-class hotel restaurant that specializes in authentic Northern Italian cuisine, the food is prepared by master chefs using fresh ingredients, and the dining room is under the expert supervision of former Marriott Executive Chef Cesare Biancalano—making it a real bargain!

In all restaurants participating in Puerto Rico Zest you get to choose between two appetizers, two entrees, and two desserts. My wife and I signed up for a MasterCard and headed for Tuscany as soon as we found out about the program.

The choices were classics: Caesar salad (made with a dressing of pasteurized eggs, anchovies, and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese) or minestrone soup; veal scallopine (with pine nuts and steamed Italian vegetables) or chicken parmigiano; and tiramisu or torta dinonna (a version with walnuts, rum, and honey).

As you can see in my photos, the presentation was perfect and the servings generous. I tasted all six courses and enjoyed every one! We ordered a house pinot grigio (I think its was Placido) to go with the meal and it was nicely served from carafes chilled in a tableside ice bucket. The total bill was $78 including tax and tip. I didn’t think there were still fine dining establishments on the island where a couple can dine (with wine) on less than $100!

You can find the list of restaurants, menus, and prices at www.puertoricozest.com. We are planning to head for Club Seabourne in Culebra and Copamarina in Guánica soon—two more of the many places around the island that we like and that are also “Zesting.”

A Walk in the Old City

Even after 50 years in Puerto Rico, I never get tired of walking around Old San Juan. Our young friends like its exciting late nightlife, but we like to go early in the evening, on Fridays, when there are no cruise ships in port but the streets are still filled with happy people coming and going to the restaurants and just hanging out.

Our latest excuse was to catch a friend whose band (nas’ka) was scheduled to play at Café La Princesa starting at 8:00 p.m. We got there at nine—and there was no music: an earlier downpour on the open-air café caused the cancellation. Not to be daunted, we strolled along Recinto Sur Street, listened to some jazz at Carli’s in the Banco Popular building, debated having a boutique beer at Old Harbour Brewery, looked in at some of the new places on the street that had opened since our last visit, and generally people-watched our way past the outdoor café tables to Plaza Colón. We ended up at Sofía around the corner on San Francisco Street and spent a pleasant hour sipping wine with owner Sandro Calenda. Sandro is the son of Bruno Calenda, former owner of two sorely missed great Italian restaurants, Tutti Italia in Condado and La Piccola Tutti Italia in Hato Rey. Since Sandro took over Sofía, he has given the menu a first-rate overhaul and upgrade, favoring the dishes from his (and his father’s) native Naples.

Northern Italian at Tuscany, Southern Italian at Sofía—you don’t have to leave Puerto Rico to travel to tutti Italia!