Casual Culebra is Now Caribbean Chic

Text by Ronald C. Flores

Just mention the name Culebra to its countless fans and watch their eyes light up. This tiny gem of an island—a municipality of Puerto Rico that lies about 17 miles off its eastern shore—inspires a degree of passion that is entirely out of proportion to its size. As its fewer than 2,000 residents are proud to point out, there is one town—with one bank, one gas station, one airport, one hospital, two schools, two paved roads, and no traffic lights. There are no resort hotels, no casinos, and no fast food-restaurants.

As visitors quickly discover, there is a casual Caribbean laid-back attitude and a pace of life that can revive the weariest traveler. They lodge in quaint guesthouses or gorgeous rental properties, rough it at a first-rate camping ground, dine at informal restaurants, and spend their lazy days in, on or under the clearest, bluest water they have ever seen—where they sun, snorkel, surf, fish, kayak, hike or dive—or hitch a hammock between two palm trees and do absolutely nothing.

Many are special fans of Club Seabourne, the chic boutique hotel that hugs a hill along the shore of Fulladoza Bay and the only property on Culebra that is endorsed by the Puerto Rico Tourism Company. After a major remodeling and upgrading, Club Seabourne is celebrating its 10th anniversary with a new look, a new menu, and an even higher level of pampering for its guests.

The dozen or so villas now sport a predominantly white look with blue-grey accents inside and out. Rooms feature lovely sights of Culebra in the artful work by photographer José Alberto Martí Urbiñas. Glass doors open to a private terrace and a view of the grounds and the bay. Natura brand personal-care products are featured in the luxurious new bathrooms and flat-screen TVs, refrigerators, and robes are now standard amenities.

A Caribbean Lounge has been created for the restaurant and poolside gazebo bar, and the menu has been redesigned to feature Novo-Latino dishes such as Snapper Filet Pionono with Cilantro Sauce, Churrasco Stuffed with Peppers, and the hotel’s signature Culebra Fresh Lobster. More than 10 wines are now available by the glass from the hotel’s first-rate wine cellar—all served in Riedel stemware.

Also to commemorate its anniversary, Club Seabourne launched a new website (www.clubseabourne.com) with an assortment of new packages, online reservations, and links to land and air transportation. With its “Meet My Needs” feature, guests choose their amenities in advance or make special requests, which are waiting for them in their room when they arrive—and each day of their stay.

Like Culebra itself, Club Seabourne has always captured a special place in the hearts of its demanding guests, from romantic couples and families on vacation to wedding parties and corporate groups. With its sophisticated new Caribbean Chic look, it will certainly capture more!

Club Seabourne is located on Fulladoza Bay on Culebra Island. For more information, visit www.clubseabourne.com or call 787-742-3169.

A Grand Day in Guaynabo

Text by Alexis O. Fernández

From the very oldest settlement on the island to the very newest museums, parks, and entertainment centers, Guaynabo City is a grand destination for visitors to the metropolitan San Juan area. Whether you are from the state of Florida on the U.S. mainland or the town of Florida in Puerto Rico, there are plenty of good reasons to put Guaynabo on your list of “must-see” places.

There are so many, in fact, that a single day can only introduce you to our “Five Star City.” Here is an itinerary to serve as a guide to get you started on your Guaynabo adventure and to whet your appetite to come back again and again!

9:00 a.m. Caparra Ruins Museum & Historic Park
Puerto Rico’s founding governor, Juan Ponce de León, established Caparra, our island’s first European settlement, in 1508, in an area that is now call Guaynabo—which gives guayabeños bragging rights about being the first capital of the island! The village eventually was moved to what is now known as Old San Juan and all traces of Caparra disappeared into history—until its ruins were uncovered during the construction of Highway PR2.

A charming little museum, under the care of the Institute of Puerto Rican Culture, now marks the spot. It contains art and artifacts from the site that are more than half a millennium old, including several rare pieces of ecclesiastical art from Ponce de León’s time that were donated to the museum. You can walk among the ruins and imagine greeting the great conquistador—had he discovered the legendary Fountain of Youth.

The Caparra Ruins Museum (787-781-4795) is on PR2, km 6.4, in Guaynabo and is open to the public Monday to Friday, 8:00 a.m. to noon and again from 1:00 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. Weekend visits can be arranged by appointment. Exhibit captions are in Spanish but a curator is available to discuss the contents in Spanish or English. www.icp.gobierno.pr.

10:00 a.m. Rafael Martínez Nadal Museum

This museum is totally dedicated to the life and work of one of the island’s major political figures of the first half of the 20th century, Rafael Martínez Nadal. He was the third president of the Puerto Rico Senate, an avid defender of statehood for Puerto Rico, founder of the Partido Unión Republicana (in 1924), and a pioneer defender of women’s rights. His former home—lovingly maintained by his surviving daughter and a granddaughter—is crowded with records of his achievements (in Spanish), photos, artifacts, and furnishings. In a short visit, you can recapture a style of life that has all but disappeared.

Museo Prócer Rafael Martínez Nadal (787-525-7950 & 787-963-1449) is at 102 Acuarela St., next to Expreso Martínez Nadal. It is open by appointment.
www.museorafaelmartineznadal.com.

11:00 a.m. Historic City Center
Head to the center of town, where you’ll pass the grand Bellas Artes Center and a large yellow sculpture, Vórtice II, at Plaza de la Cultura on José R. Carazo St. Park in or near the new City Hall, stroll before the high-rise building and bandstand, then head for the old town plaza. Look for the steeple bells of San Pedro Mártir de Verona Church, one of the oldest on the island, dating back to 1765 and listed in the National Register of Historic Places. A beautiful fountain graces the plaza and, in front of it, is the original City Hall, soon to become a history museum.

A short walk from the plaza is the interesting art deco Telephone & Telegraph Building. Nearby are a bust and tiny park that mark the site where Puerto Rican patriot Román Baldorioty de Castro was born. Back behind the new City Hall tower is Plaza de los Artistas (Artists’ Square), an interesting urban art space with large outdoor sculptures— one honoring each of Guaynabo’s 10 barrios (wards).

It should be about lunchtime and a good time to try local food at one of the various restaurants near the plaza.

Guaynabo’s town square is between José de Diego, Tapia, Díaz Navarro and George R. Coltron streets. The old Telephone & Telegraph Building is on José R. Carazo St. and the Baldorioty de Castro bust is on Barbosa St. For directions and more information, visit or call the Guaynabo office of Art, Culture & Tourism on the sixth floor of the New City Hall, 787-720-4040.
www.guaynabocity.gov.pr.

1:00 p.m. Museo del Deporte de Puerto Rico (Sports Museum)
Guaynabo is the Sports Capital of Puerto Rico, and it is only fitting that it should be the home of the Sports Museum, a $4 million-plus building near the Olympic Rings fountain on Bulevar de los Deportes (Sports Boulevard). This is the largest and most modern facility of its kind in Latin America and has earned recognition as one of the finest sports museums in the world! Its exhibition rooms contain just about everything you want to know about your favorite island team or player. Kids are especially attracted to the dozens of life-size replicas of sports personalities, each valued at some $20,000.

The Sports Museum of Puerto Rico (787-731-4923 & 787-431-4924) is at 3 Bulevar del Deporte, Sector Bello Monte, and is open Tuesday to Friday 9:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.; Saturdays and Sundays 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. www.museodedeportepr.com.

3:00 p.m. Mirador Gavillán and Parque Forestal (Forest Park) La Marquesa
After a pleasant 15-minute drive from downtown on PR834 you are rewarded with a bird’s-eye view of Guaynabo and its environs at Mirador Gavillán. After taking in the vast vista, continue on PR834 until it ends at PR835, turn left, and proceed to Parque Forestal La Marquesa’s gate, which is clearly marked.

The park is called the lungs of Guaynabo and is certainly the place to breathe fresh air, glimpse the flora and fauna of a wet forest, climb an observation tower (1,066 feet above sea level) where you can see the sea and San Juan, the interior mountains and virtually all of Guaynabo, and tire out the kids. There are playgrounds all over the park, a trolley in which to travel part of the distance, and lots of gravel roads for hiking.

When Phase Two of the municipal project is complete (call to confirm dates), there will be an aviary and butterfly park, a cafeteria and gift shop—and a funicular to take you there. As it is, the park is a fine opportunity to commune with nature right in the midst of the largest metropolitan area on the island. The scientifically minded can confer with the park director and learn about a new species of butterfly recently discovered there and some live prehistoric ferns.

Adjacent to the park is The Original Canopy Tour (787-789-1598 & 787-444-0110), a private operation that is popular with adventure travelers. www.canopytourpr.com.

Parque Forestal La Marquesa (787-908-1478) is open Wednesday to Sunday 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.

[Editor’s Note: Alexis O. Fernández-Vives, AIA, NCARB, an architect and preservationist, is the enthusiastic new director of Art, Culture & Tourism for Guaynabo City.]

Un grandioso día en Guaynabo

Desde el más antiguo asentamiento en la Isla hasta los más nuevos museos, parques y centros de entretenimiento, la ciudad de Guaynabo es un gran destino para quienes visitan el área metropolitana de San Juan. No importa si usted es oriundo del estado de Florida en el continente norteamericano o del pueblo de Florida en Puerto Rico, hay muchas buenas razones para incluir a Guaynabo en su lista de lugares a visitar.

De hecho, hay tantos atractivos que un día solo le brinda un atisbo de la “Ciudad de Cinco Estrellas”. He aquí un itinerario que le servirá de guía para comenzar a conocer a Guaynabo y hacerle volver una y otra vez.

9:00 a.m. Museo y Parque Histórico delas Ruinas de Caparra
Juan Ponce de León, el primer gobernador de Puerto Rico, estableció Caparra, el primer asentamiento europeo de nuestra Isla, en el 1509 en el área que hoy día es parte de Guaynabo —lo cual le da a los guaynabeños el privilegio de decir que su ciudad fue la primera capital de la Isla. La villa fue eventualmente trasladada a lo que hoy conocemos como el Viejo San Juan y todo rastro de Caparra se perdió en la historia hasta que sus ruinas fueron encontradas durante la construcción de la carretera PR2.

Hoy día un pequeño museo bajo el cuidado del Instituto de Cultura Puertorriqueña marca el lugar. Allí encontrará arte y artefactos que tienen más de medio milenio de antigüedad e incluyen varias raras piezas de arte eclesiástico de la época de Ponce de León que fueron donadas al museo. Usted puede caminar entre las ruinas e imaginarse que se topa con el gran conquistador… ¡si él hubiese llegado a encontrar la legendaria Fuente de la Juventud, claro está!

El Museo de las Ruinas de Caparra (787-781-4795) está ubicado en la carretera PR2 Km 6.4 en Guaynabo y está abierto al público de lunes a viernes de 8:00 a.m. a 12:00 m. y nuevamente de 1:00 p.m. a 4:30 p.m. Las exhibiciones están en español, pero un empleado podrá informarle sobre el contenido del museo tanto en español como en inglés. www.icp.gobierno.pr.

10:00 a.m. Museo Rafael Martínez Nadal
Este museo está enteramente dedicado a destacar la vida y la labor de una de las figuras políticas de mayor importancia en la Isla durante la primera mitad del siglo 20: Rafael Martínez Nadal. Él fue el tercer presidente del Senado de Puerto Rico, un férreo defensor de la estadidad para Puerto Rico, fundador del Partido Unión Republicana en el 1924 y pionero en la defensa de los derechos de las mujeres. Su antiguo hogar —cuidadosamente mantenido por su hija y una nieta— está repleto de evidencia de sus logros, fotos, artefactos y mobiliario. En una corta visita usted podrá recapturar un estilo de vida que prácticamente ha desaparecido.

El Museo Prócer Rafael Martínez Nadal (787-525-7950 & 787-963-1449) está situado en el Núm. 102 de la calle Acuarela, al lado del Expreso Martínez Nadal. Está abierto al público por cita previa. www.museorafaelmartineznadal.com.

11:00 Centro Histórico del Pueblo
Diríjase al centro del pueblo, donde pasará por el gran Centro de Bellas Artes y una gran escultura amarilla titulada Vórtice II en la Plaza de la Cultura ubicada en la calle Carazo. Estaciónese en o cerca de la nueva Alcaldía, camine frente al edificio multipisos y la glorieta y luego trasládese a la Plaza de Recreo. Oriéntese buscando el campanario de la Iglesia San Pedro Mártir de Verona, una de las más antiguas de la Isla, construida en el 1765, y que forma parte de los sitios listados en el Registro Nacional de Lugares Históricos. Una hermosa fuente adorna la plaza y frente a ella se encuentra la vieja Alcaldía, que pronto se convertirá en un museo.

A poca distancia de la plaza se encuentra el interesante Edificio del Teléfono y Telégrafo, construido en el estilo art deco. Cerca está un pequeño y concurrido parque que marca el lugar donde nació el patriota puertorriqueño Román Baldorioty de Castro. Detrás de la torre de la nueva Alcaldía está la Plaza de los Artistas, un interesante espacio para el arte urbano con diez grandes esculturas, cada una honrando a uno de los barrios originales de Guaynabo.

Su recorrido debe haberse extendido hasta la hora del almuerzo, por lo que es buena idea saborear delicias locales de la comida criolla en cualquiera de los restaurantes que ubican cerca de la plaza.

La Plaza de Recreo de Guaynabo está entre las calles José de Diego, Tapia, Díaz Navarro y George R. Coltron. El edificio del viejo telégrafo está en la calle José R. Carazo y el busto de Baldorioty de Castro está en la calle Barbosa. Para indicaciones y más información, visite la Oficina de Arte, Cultura y Turismo del Municipio de Guaynabo en el sexto piso de la nueva Alcaldía. También puede llamar al 787-720-4040. www.guaynabocity.gov.pr.

1:00 p.m. Museo del Deporte de Puerto Rico
Guaynabo es la Capital del Deporte de Puerto Rico y por ello es la sede del Museo del Deporte, un edificio de más de $4 millones ubicado cerca de la fuente de los Aros Olímpicos en el Bulevar de los Deportes. Esta es la instalación más grande y más moderna en su clase en toda Latinoamérica y ha sido reconocida como uno de los mejores museos deportivos en el mundo entero. Sus salones de exhibición contienen prácticamente todo lo que usted desearía saber sobre su equipo deportivo o atleta puertorriqueño preferido. Los niños quedan fascinados con las decenas de réplicas en tamaño real de distinguidas personalidades del deporte, cada una valorada aproximadamente en $20,000.

El Museo del Deporte de Puerto Rico (787-731-4923 & 787-431-4924) está situado en el Núm. 3 del Bulevar del Deporte, Sector Bello Monte, y está abierto de martes a viernes de 9:30 a.m. a 4:00 p.m. y los sábados y domingos de 11:00 a.m. a 4:00 p.m. www.museodedeportepr.com.

3:00 p.m. Mirador Gavillán y Parque Forestal La Marquesa
Al tomar la carretera PR834 desde el centro del pueblo y tras manejar unos 15 minutos usted obtendrá como recompensa una hermosa vista panorámica de Guaynabo y sus alrededores desde el Mirador Gavillán. Después de admirar el paisaje, continúe en la PR834 hasta que termine en la PR835, doble a la izquierda y llegue hasta el portón del Parque Forestal La Marquesa, que está muy bien identificado.

El parque se considera el pulmón de Guaynabo y sin lugar a dudas es el lugar perfecto para respirar aire fresco, admirar la flora y fauna de un bosque húmedo, subir a una torre de observación (a 1,066 pies sobre el nivel del mar) donde usted podrá ver el mar y San Juan, las montañas de interior de la Isla y prácticamente todo Guaynabo —y también entretener a los niños hasta que se cansen. Hay áreas de juegos a lo largo del parque, un trolebús para recorrer parte de este y muchas veredas para hacer senderismo.

Cuando concluya la Fase Dos del proyecto municipal (llame para confirmar fechas), habrá un aviario y un mariposario, una cafetería y tienda de regalos —y un funicular para transportarle. En su estado actual, el parque le provee una estupenda oportunidad para entrar en contacto con la naturaleza justo en medio del área metropolitana más grande de la Isla. Las personas con interés en la ciencia pueden dialogar con el director del parque y obtener más información sobre una especie de mariposa recién descubierta en el parque y algunos helechos prehistóricos vivos.

Al lado del parque está la oficina de The Original Canopy Tour (787-789-1598 & 787-444-0110), una compañía privada que es muy popular entre los viajeros de aventuras. www.canopytourpr.com.

El Parque Forestal La Marquesa (787-908-1478) está abierto de miércoles a domingo, de 9:00 a.m. a 5:00 p.m.

[Nota del Editor: Alexis O. Fernández-Vives, AIA, NCARB, arquitecto y conservacionista, es el nuevo Director de Arte, Cultura y Turismo del municipio de Guaynabo.]

Water, Water, Everywhere!

Text by Felipe Cano

El Yunque National Forest, the only tropical rainforest in the U.S. National Forest System, is the headwaters for eight watersheds that provide an estimated 11.6 billion gallons per day of the precious liquid. The forest’s average annual rainfall of 120 inches yields enough water to meet the needs of all surrounding communities.

Among the most interesting users of this water in the forest are the seven unique species of fish and 10 species of shrimp and crabs that are endemic to the area—they are found nowhere else on Earth. They have evolved over millions of years in the rivers of the Luquillo Mountain Range and have adapted to their environment by assuming different protective shapes and sizes.

The indigenous Taíno people believed in the sacredness of the Luquillo Mountains and regarded the waterfalls as places of veneration. Because of the challenging terrain, no one knows exactly how many waterfalls there are in the forest but there are many! Probably the best known is La Coca, which visitors can experience right next to road PR191 in the forest, and the most popular is La Mina, where visitors often take a cool dip after hiking along the Big Tree Trail. One of the great delights of hiking the forest is encountering such treasures as the dramatic two-level Juan Diego Falls, which is a short walk from PR191 at km 9.8.

Water is necessary for life and was held in high regard in the ancient world. It wasn’t seen as something to be exploited but rather as an element to respect as a gift.

[Editor’s Note: Felipe Cano is a Wildlife Biologist at El Yunque National Forest. You can see pictures and learn fun facts about the wildlife that depends on the clean water of the forest by visiting www.fs.fed.us/r8/el_yunque and selecting Wildlife Facts. El Yunque is a finalist for the New Seven Wonders of Nature competition. Please vote before the Nov. 11, 2011 deadline by visiting www.new7wonders.com.]